A Florida Feast
by Adrian Leeds
Months of cold, gray, rainy Parisian days prompted a call to the airline and Continental’s low mid-winter fares enabled us to travel into one part of the state, return from another part, at one low bargain price. Eighty degrees Fahrenheit, blue skies and good friends on both coasts were just what we needed to regain our sunny American spirits and healthy appetites.
Florida may be only one state geographically, but is a jigsaw puzzle of cultures. As we moved from south Florida to the northeast coast, then across the state to the Gulf coast, our experiences decidedly changed shape and color. Our quest for fun in the sun included beach days, amusement parks, boating, shopping and of course, dining tasting all that we can’t get in Paris.
Within minutes after arrival in Ft. Lauderdale we headed directly to Lester’ s Diner (1), a Broward County institution and one of the few remaining true” diners in the U.S. I couldn't wait to order the pancakes, sunny-side-up eggs with bacon on the side of course, the all-you-can-drink American coffee” (in a 14-ounce cup). No diner is complete without a tattooed, flat-topped, sleeveless and muscular trucker making small talk with a tall thin blonde waitress in a tight white uniform and this was no exception!
South Beach is Florida’s best people-watching and architectural candy store. Hard bodies as bare-skinned as they dare adorn the seaside cafes and boutiques. Young roller-bladers and bikers with deep tans and oily skin out-weigh the tourists and retirees from just up the coast. Revitalized art deco style stucco hotels painted in bright pastels hint at a Miami past I can still remember as a kid when the Fountainbleau Hotel and Collins Avenue was the hottest vacation spot on the East Coast. Along Ocean Drive, restaurants and boutiques are bustling, and most of all, The News Café (2) continues to pack them in 24 hours a day. France has not yet discovered Caesar salad and certainly not topped with fried calamari, as we did that day. Fruit "smoothies" can be had at Cuban owned groceries. We visited cheesy souvenir shops that sell scant bikinis and "head shops" supplying the still-alive dope trade.
An afternoon without an espresso would be like Florida without sunshine, so in my quest for real” coffee, unlike the watered-down American brew (known in France as jus de chaussettes”), I discovered Cuban café con leche,” thick, rich and frothy, not to mention aromatic and flavorful. Yum.
I couldn’t have gone home without a taste of Cuban cuisine. The Versailles Cuban restaurant in Miami is world-renown and there is even a quasi copy of it in Los Angeles under the same name. It's one of my favorites, but instead we chose Padrino’s (3) in Hallandale and I indulged in Lechon Asado: chunks of oven roasted pork, grilled with onions in a homemade marinade, served with rice and black beans, of course, and a side of Mariquitas de Platanos, crispy plantain chips.
For a lunch on the beach we took Popeye’s Fried Chicken (4) (“food with an attitude” spicy Cajun chicken from New Orleans) to Haulover Beach (5), one of the few nude beaches in the U.S. for those who yearn for total liberation. Europeans are much more at home with their bodies, as almost all beaches in Europe are at least topless, so it’s easy for me now to feel comfortable getting a suntan all over. These Americans obviously do, too, as we found gray-haired Floridians (and possibly even Europeans!) with plushy bodies chasing volleyballs, walking along the water’s edge and lazing on towels like lizards. This was the second time in my life I had sunbathed on a Valentine's Day what a glorious way to spend a winter day.
In Deerfield Beach a beer-drinking crowd fills a New England style seafood joint called the Whale's Rib (6) to create a 45 minute wait. By the time we were seated, I was starving. No wonder I devoured raw oysters (not as plump as a New Orleans Gulf of Mexico variety but just as tasty), Florida rock shrimp dripping with butter and home-made potato chips. When the waitress brought my root beer in a 2-quart pitcher with a straw and no glass to pour it into, I thought it was a joke. Guess again.
Miami's greatest Jewish deli, Wolfie Cohen's Rascal House, is transplanted further up the coast, much like its patrons -- white-haired New York Jews alias Floridians in shorts, white socks and sun caps. Kosher dills and sour pickles await you at the table along with a basket of five or six different breads and cole slaw. My smoked fish platter of Nova lox, sable, white fish, onions, tomatoes, bagels and cream cheese was enough to feed me, my friends, the waiter and half of Boca Raton. Dr. Brown’s Cream Soda washed it all down. By now, I'm starting to feel like the Michelin Man and rolled to the beach, unaccompanied by wheels.
That evening, we had a yen for ribs, specifically from The Outback (8), an Aussie-style chain steakhouse. One order of "Ribs on the Barbie" (Australian for barbecue) is a full slab of baby back pork ribs as large as beef ribs, smoked and grilled, served with Aussie chips (sweet potatoes) and cinnamon apples. I got lots of ribbing” for eating the ribs with a fork and knife Parisian style, while everyone else had sauce from ear to ear. We topped it all off with a Chocolate Thunder from Down Under,” a fresh-baked pecan brownie, rich vanilla ice cream topped with hot homemade chocolate sauce and chocolate shavings. One dessert, four spoons and we still couldn't finish it.
A drive up the coast took us to the Kennedy Space Center (9) for a full day of space exploration at ground level. Well-organized and beautifully presented, we learned a lot about the history of the space program. We saw a 3-D movie (with oversized 3-D spectacles on our faces) about a future satellite space city that was visually breathtaking, not to mention fascinating. During a 30 minute session, visitors have a chance to meet a real astronaut and asked questions. Smart kids asked lots of smart questions. Part of the tour entails a three-hour bus excursion to three different exhibit buildings and a tour around the complex. One building houses the actual 363-foot, 6.2 million pound Saturn V moon rocket and another houses the new shuttles being built right there on the premises. Midday and midway, we gobbled up hot dogs and "Icees" from, pun intended, The Lunch Pad.”
While crossing the state on route to Orlando, a huge cloud of black smoke crossed our paths and we questioned whether it was just a big rain cloud or something more out of the ordinary. It was creating a spectacular sunset of blues and purples. We were awestruck. Later we learned that it was a Polk County brush fire started by a careless backyard rubbish burner and closed Interstate-4 for almost a week.
In Orlando we met up with friends at Cafe Tu Tu Tango (10) for Americanized tapas including Alligator Bites,” alligator tail meat, fried and spicy. Café Tu Tu Tango is like an adult version of "Chuck E. Cheese's Pizza World." Artists are actually at work, belly dancers in sequined costumes are dancing and enticing you to join them all while you are surrounded by a sea of second-rate art. This is American kitsch at its best.
Disney’s Epcot Center (11), which opened on October 1, 1982, was the disappointment of our entire trip. It seems to be more an international shopping center than a Place of Joy, Hope and Friendship” inspired by Walt Disney's creative vision. Americans who come to Epcot come from all over the country and represent what might be termed as "Middle America." The obesity of the average American is shocking after years of living among the slim, trim French. (Then I learned that the French consume on average in one year's time 5 lbs. sugar per person. Americans, on the other hand, consume over 100 lbs. of sugar per year.) Nonetheless, we likely passed up some of the better exhibits in lieu of the pavilions sponsored by countries such as France, China and Norway. The panoramic movie about France was clearly as old as the Epcot Center itself, but it still took our hearts when we recognized our favorite spots. Visitors were carrying trays piled with French patisseries” that reminded us of home and we chatted in French with the gift boutique sales girls.
Because Interstate-4 was closed, it took twice as long to travel to Palm Harbor from Orlando, a charming community on the Gulf of Mexico 25 miles north of Tampa and just a few miles from Clearwater where long-time friends live with their four kids, dog, cat, guinea pigs and fish. The extra travel time granted us extra chat time, so no one complained.
This was our first real chance to shop for American products to take home to France since we had arrived in Florida. We always come with a suitcase inside of a suitcase then fill them both till hard to close. We made a stop to such American major retailers in barn-like buildings as Bed, Bath and Beyond; Comp USA and Target; loaded up the car, scratched off the items from our shopping list and packed them away in the waiting suitcases. What do Franco-Americans buy when visiting America?: towels, shower curtain, telephone, CD’s, toiletries, cosmetics, over-the-counter drugs and candy (Hugs and Kisses, M&M Peanuts, Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups, Bazooka Bubble Gum!). We also hit the grocery store for Brillo, Clorox, pancake mix, maple syrup and Jif Extra Crunchy peanut butter.
Our first evening in Clearwater we watched the sunset over the ocean (sunset watching is the local sport) with our toes buried in the sparkling white powdery sand, soft and silky like talcum powder. My black skirt was in sharp contrast to the white beach and I guess black just isn’t a color Florida people wear since it was the second time that day I was asked if I was from New York! At Frenchy’s (12) on the beach just near the pier, we ate a world famous” Grouper sandwich, barbecued ribs, conch fritters and clam chowder. Grouper is tough to come by, but Frenchy's Seafood Company catches it's own grouper and all its other fresh seafood.
At Clearwater Beach the Gulf of Mexico is shallow and calm. The sky was bluer than blue, the air was warm, yet breezy and it was perfect for a day of solidifying our tans, reading our novels and munching on hot dogs and fries with a Barq’s root beer, of course.
We adults double dated” that evening (with a local friend of my friends’, my friends and me) and decided to test the new Sea Grill (13) famous for seafood with a twist.” The Sea Grill is elegant and casual at the same time, with plate glass windows overlooking a lovely waterway dotted by palms. I had grouper encrusted in pistachios and a Caesar salad. While everyone's dinner was excellent, beautifully presented and the service quite good, I still believe better value is had in Paris considering the cost of this meal vs. the quality and what that same amount would buy you in Paris. Of course, it's tough in Paris to do the opposite have a very good quality meal for as little a cost as you can in the States.
I hadn’t quite had my fill of seafood (I never do), so the next day we lunched at Kaiko’s Japanese Sushi Bar (14) (known by the regulars as Charlie’s” since Charlie is the main chef). Charlie makes the most delicious scallop hand rolls I’ve ever eaten. Pro wrestling legend Hulk "Hollywood" Hogan, a resident of the area, was there that day as he often is (I was told it’s his favorite eatery). If you haven’t seen him lately, he’s still white-haired, still tan, still muscular.
My friends reserved a boat for the afternoon and in glorious warm sunshine, we toured the neighboring waterways. To our great amazement, we spotted four beautiful dolphin swimming elegantly side by side along side the boat. Then we docked at the bayside marina of the Caladesi Island State Park (15). Located on the Gulf, sand dunes line the open beach with turtles and shore birds. Ferries depart hourly; the only other way to access the island. It’s one of the U.S.’s finest beaches. Walking along the water’s edge, we found a sand dollar, opalescent seashells and a large sting ray swimming just off shore. We kept our eyes peeled for rattlesnakes, but thankfully never spotted one. We did, however, come across a very tall, sleek, gray heron, waiting patiently for lunching boaters to hand over their sandwiches!
Dinner that evening was a flashback to Paris with two Francophile friends who come every year for at least a month and who live the rest of the year in the quaint community of Tarpon Springs. Greek immigrant fisherman started a sponge diving business in the early 1900’s there. They took me to what they believe is the most authentic Greek restaurant on the sponge docks Mikonos (16). It must be true, because it was filled to capacity. The kitchen is open to the diners so you can see the chefs dishing out dish after dish. The very garlicky and very thick sadziki” was great on the fresh Greek bread. The grilled kalamarikia” (squid) was perfection. The patates to fourno” (oven roasted potatoes) is my friend’s favorite dish there. After dinner, we strolled along the docks and of course, picked out a few sponges to take home to friends -- no easy matter when there are thousands to choose from of every size, shape and quality!
Our last day in Florida, we decided not to miss a single thing. At lunch we chewed twice and then swallowed raw oysters (isn't that the way it's done?), crunched crispy Caesar salad and dripped the sauces from a fried conch sandwich at the Thirsty Marlin (17), just across the street from our friends' house on Florida Avenue (how apropos!).
With incredible luck, we arrived that afternoon in Tarpon Springs just as the boat was pulling in with live blue crabs. We ordered up a dozen, added on some Zatarains seafood boil, Louisiana Hot Sauce and headed home with a Key Lime Pie and Silver Queen corn on the cob from a nearby fresh produce stand. I was in charge of boiling up the crabs while onlooking kids watched them turn a bright red as they hit the boiling peppery water. Being a New Orleans girl, this was my favorite meal of all. Nothing is more exciting to me than fresh-boiled spicy seafood, Cajun style, hard to get anywhere but in Louisiana but recreate-able right there in Palm Harbor. Key Lime Pie for dessert the perfect Florida meal topper.
The next day, we rolled home via Air France stuffed and happy only to find it snowing and hailing in Paris, putting a damper on our memories of the beautiful blue skies and warm sandy beaches of Florida in February.
At least I have this Florida feast to remember, not to mention all the good times with good friends.
Adrian's Florida Feast:
- Lester’s Diner, 250 State Road 84, Fort Lauderdale, (954) 525-5641
- News Café, 800 Ocean Drive, Miami Beach, (305) 538-6397
- Padrino's Restaurant, 2500 E. Hallandale Beach Blvd., Hallandale, (954) 456-4550
- http://www.popeyes.com/
- Haulover Beach, Sunny Isles Beach, Miami-Dade County, midway Miami Beach and Hollywood.
- Whale's Rib, 2031 N.E. 2nd Street, Deerfield Beach, (305) 421-8800
- Rascal House, Executive Center Circle, Boca Raton, (561) 982-8899
- http://www.outback.com/
- http://www.kennedyspacecenter.com/
- Café Tu Tu Tango, 3015 Grand Avenue, (305) 529-2222, http://www.cafetututango.com/
- http://www.michaelcrawford.com/disney.htmhttp://www.disneyfan.com/wdwinfo/guides/epcot/epws-unitedstates.htm
- Frenchy’s Rockaway Grill, 7 Rockaway Street, Clearwater Beach, (727) 446-4844, E-mail: info@frenchysonline.comhttp://www.frenchysonline.com/rockaway.html
- Sea Grill, 3255 S.R. 584 (Tampa Rd.), Palm Harbor (727) 787-6129
- Kaiko, 2475 F. McMullen Booth Road, Oakbrook Plaza, Safety Harbor, (727) 791-6640
- http://www.abfla.com/parks/Caladesi/caladesi.html
- Mikonos Authentic Greek Cookery, 628 Dodecanese Boulevard, Tarpon Springs (727) 934-4306
- Thirsty Marlin, 1023 Florida Avenue,Old Town Palm Harbor, (727) 784-3469
|
Send this page to a friend... 
